July 24th, 2006 
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Stick welding is also known as shielded Metal Arc welding (SMAW) or manual metal arc (MMA) welding. Stick welding is an arc welding process in which coalescence of metals is produced by heat from an electric arc that is maintained between the tip of a consumable covered electrode and the surface of the base metal in the joint being welded.
Stick, the most basic of welding processes, offers the easiest option for joining steel and other metals. Stick welding power sources deliver inexpensive options for welding versatility, portability and reliability.
Stick welders are used in small welding shop, by the homeowner, by the farmer for repair of equipment – as well as industrial fabrication applications, structural steel erection and other commercial metals joining. All common materials can be welded with a stick machine, be sure to select the appropriate stick electrode for the material being welded.
Advantages of stick welding are it is simple to use, inexpensive and portable. Auxiliary gas shielding or granular flux is not required. It can be used in areas of limited access. The process is suitable for most of the commonly used metals and alloys. The welding current used for stick welding may be either alternating current or direct current depending on the electrode being used. Direct current is the most common current choice for stick welding. The current flows in one direction only and has many advantages over alternating current for the stick process. These advantages include: fewer arc outages, less spatter, easier arc starting, less sticking and better control in out-of-position welds.
Alternating current is an electrical current that has both a positive and a negative half-cycle value alternately. Current flows in a specific direction for one half-cycle stops at the zero line and then reverse direction of flow the next half-cycle at regular intervals. The AC sine wave represents the current flow as it builds in amount and time in the positive direction and then decreases in value and finally reaches zero.
DC welding offers more advantages than AC for most stick applications, including: easier starts, fewer arc outages and sticking, less spatter/better looking welds; easier vertical up and overhead welding. A 225 to 300 amp machine handles almost anything the average person will encounter, as most stick welding procedures require 200 amps or less. To weld material thicker than 3/8 in, simply make multiple passes-this is what professionals’ do, even when welding on 1 in structural steel.
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How do you get rid of acetylene and oxygen tanks from welding?I have a couple of big tanks (one acetylene and one oxygen) from my dad's old business. They're empty, but will a welding supply company trade them for smaller tanks( of course I'd have to pay)? If not, how do I dispose of them?
Tanks are 20 years old at least, they were not on any type of rental, I definitely own them.
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you can get an auto darkening helmet for $40 @ Northern Tools
"Stick" welding is not generally used in production welding. Its generally too slow and messy. Usually, MIG, Submerged arc, or occasionally TIG welding.
Stick welding is used for field welding (including but not limited to construction), pipe fitting, and maintenance and repair work.
Everyone has their preferences but there are 5 brands to stick with: Miller, Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Arc, and Hobart. Miller and Lincoln are the two big ones here in the US. Both are dependable and great to use. The competition between them really boils down to a few features that differ between the competing models, but I have used dozens of machines from both without any problems. ESAB is good but much more popular in Europe. They make amazing stuff for automated welding and industrial settings. Thermal Arc is another good brand that is just not as popular. Hobart tends to be overshadowed by Miller and Lincoln but are just as good for slightly less money.
Whatever you do, stay away from the Harbor Freight welders and the off brand welders. They are more trouble than they are worth because of their low reliability and the difficulty in finding replacement parts should you ever need them. Also, many are flawed right out of the box which will make learning even more difficult. A welder is a tool, and you don't want to skimp on quality even though it might save money in the short term.
You won't get much welder for less than $300 unless you buy used. I personally got a used Lincoln Weld Pak 100 for $165 shipped off eBay with an almost full spool of wire. The Lincoln Weld Pak series is an amazing line of light duty wire feed welders and pretty cheap if you don't mind buying last year's model. Stick welders are going to be much cheaper. The Lincoln AC-225 series has always been a top performer for the casual welder and can be had for next to nothing if you look on Craigslist and eBay. Miller has comparable models, but I am much more familiar with the light Lincoln welders.
try these
Certainly…..
You surely can, but if your not experienced at welding thin metal……you should practice on a piece of metal like you are going to be welding on.
If you use a small ( 1/16 inch diameter) welding rod, and using low heat/amps settings…..you can successfully weld on any body metal.
The thing about this is you can only weld about 1/4 inch at a time….or until the sheet metal becomes brite red. If you continue with the metal holding a lot of heat, a small hole will result.
In welding body metal several "tack" welds are better than a continuous long weld. The tack welds will allow movement after the finnish is applied and actually will be stronger.
With a continuous weld the metal body will "warp" from the high heat…..and the weld area will be brittle and can crack with movement.
So a series of tack welds spaced an inch or more apart or so is what you want to do….and if you allow the metal to cool after each tack weld….The body panel will not warp or deflect…the deflected metal is a pain to finish out, with body filler.
I have both types of welding equipment (wire and stick) and for ease I use the stick welder on auto panel patches, its just easier and quicker.
If you are attempting to weld very thin metal, you can use a thicker backing metal strip behind the metal your welding, it will absorb the heat and speed things along.
If your not so good a welder, you can position a wire rod over the crack your welding, as if you were welding the rod to the thin metal…..this will give you more fill metal and dissipate the heat. You can cut a piece of coat hanger and place it where you intend to weld….
If you burn holes in your metal with the extra filler rod, reduce the heat setting and try again….if that just does not work for you…… get a welder to do it for you.
A lot of people can only weld the thick metal….which is easy.
It takes technique to weld thinner metals….so practice on some junk metal similar to what you want to weld….and in 30 or 40 minutes you can get it down pat. Then you can have at some body pannels…….
As a example I have used coffee cans, and weld them end to end with a stick welder in demonstration to student welders in their lab class, and make them practice on the tin cans…..once they can stick them together….everything else is a snap. Once they learn to use a extra rod (coat hanger) as a extra filler metal….they do fine.
Using a filler rod is the same with stick or mig welding, and they get the idea faster with the tin cans…. Then they will remember that when they are welding 1 inch thick metal that large pipe is made from, and especially if the welds are to be x-ray'ed checked for quality.
So all that said…..the answer is yes, and for small welding jobs 70 amps is fine….but you should be able to find a 150 amp welder for the same price…..new, and it will last you a life time and weld anything you want.
The absolute best home welder I have ever used is a "Miller" Thunderbolt AC/DC with copper windings.. We were taking a Pipe Welding Certification course and a salesmen brought 2 welders to the school, for us, to see if we could make them either kick out or burn them up.. We used a Lincoln buzz box AC/DC continuously for 8 hours and it finally kicked out. The Miller we used continuously for 24 hours and it never did kick out. This school ran 3 shifts a day, 5 days a week. So it is your choice..
Try these guys http://www.vtndt.com/ they popped up under search for "vermont NDT"…Their web site works.
Read the manual. Go to millerwelds.com and click on service and support, manuals, and put in your model and the serial number to get the manual.
While it is possible to fill gaps, you should not need any gap to weld. The aim is to have the parts touching. Filling gaps slows down the welding and leads to poor welds.
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