June 14th, 2009 
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Stick welding, technically called shielded metal arc welding, is an old school type of welding that many newbies learn as they are just starting to train how to weld. This is an important and in-demand skill because many people need this help whether they’re dealing with iron and steels or repairing boilers. It makes use of an electric current flowing between a gap in the metal and the stick electrode that is chucked up in a holder that looks like a jumper cable clamp. The rod is struck like a match to produce arc, allowing it to mix with the metal and form the weld.
Stick welding has been the most common method for many home-shop welding projects for a long time. However, creating a good weld can be very complicated for beginners. The name of the game in stick welding is experience. To be able to master the art of it, you need a good view of the weld puddle.
Here are some few tips and tricks to help improve your stick welding skills:
Choose the right electrode.
Many welders are not sure of the type and size of the electrode that should be used in stick welding. The size of the electrode you choose should match the situation you are welding within and the kinds and thickness of metals.
Polarity matters.
If you purchase an A/C only welding equipment, then you need to get stick welding rods that are specifically created to weld on A/C. Bear in mind that not all stick welding rods are created the same. 6011, 6013, and 7018, for instance, will weld on A/C, but 6010 wont.
Don’t use odd sizes for your metal.
Most metals come in specific sizes that are common. These metals are a lot easier to find and you can weld them faster and more effectively. You don’t need to experiment on your metal selection when it comes to stick welding. To be sure that you have what you need, stick with the ones that are AISI-SAE 1015 to 1025.
Know your arc length.
For a successful stick welding job, you need to use an arc length that is the same distance from the metal as the thickness of your electrode. For example, if you own an electrode that is ½ inch thick, then have your arc ½ inch thick as well. Don’t forget that as you use the stick electrode, you will need to move it closer to the metal.
Using a good auto darkening helmet makes you a better stick welder.
A good auto darkening helmet is very important in stick welding. Most experts recommend a welding helmet that darkens in 1/20000 seconds, can be adjusted from 9 to 12 shade, and has delay and sensitivity features. You need a good welding helmet for you to see visibly where you are striking your arc and that alone will make you a much better stick welder. Aside from that, it can also protect you from the harmful UV and IR emissions from the arc.
Watch the video related to welding jobs
taking out the seized 110cc engine and replacing it with a honda 250cc twin cylincer. HUGE job, swapped back axle (bearings carrier sprockets) moves suspention, had to cut it in half and remove just about all of the orignaly frame to take the huge new block 
getting there slowly… this is the first part. more to come as the build progressess … replace lol farm bodge darren lobb engine hammer grinde weld cut join repare
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Andrei Smith writes for Midwest Metal Products Company, one of industry’s leaders in providing wire-formed, sheet metal fabricated and tubular metal products such as fan guards, custom store fixtures, trash bag stands.
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Nice work!
Thanks
E6011 and E6013 are both almost obsolete, I can only think of one or two applications where you'd want to use them over something else. If you try to use 6011, you can watch your arc blow right through the thin car frame. (There's a reason they call this stuff "farmer rods")
In any case stick welding is not suitable for anything under 1/8". You're going to get burn-through, very inconsistent weld fusion, as well as way too much heat input to the steel. In other words, in order to avoid burning through, you'll have to go way too fast or use too low of voltage to make a consistent weld. Most of the structure in a modern car is made of high-strength steel, so heat input is a major concern. Just because a weld LOOKS good, doesn't mean it IS good.
You really want to be MIG welding, it has the lowest heat input, and performs far better on thin stuff. It also makes better welds than E601x series stick electrodes. Get a pro to do this if you must.
Secondly, exactly why is it necessary to "reinforce" anything?
Remember that cars are designed to buckle and crumple in very specific ways, to absorb energy during a crash and cushion the driver. reinforcing the front or rear end will likely make the car LESS safe in an accident, not more so. The frame of a car is designed to save your life. Why do you want to be putting amateur-quality welds in it?
Note: If you're trying to add a roll cage, that's OK, but you would need to know what you're doing. Again, you don't want a roll cage to fall apart due to crappy welds, when your life's on the line…
In conclusion, in good conscience I have to advise against this.
Wouldn't it be better to buy a new one? Since you're inexperienced at "fixing it", judging from this question of yours.
I've lost a many of the clamp on ones, I started to tack weld them on, but be careful, too much heat will turn the chrome blue. Wrap a wet rag around them before you put the heat to them.
Your not using enough heat for 1.But if this is a hardened axle it prob shouldn't be welded.A experienced tig welder would be the best bet but still if its the axle get a new or used one.If its welding on the reared housing u can weld that with 6011.6011 is a general purpose rod that is a lot easier to run than 7018.Use a 1/8 rod 125 amps Good luck
For the 2g you want to kind of "hang" the bead from the top pipe, do like a crescent moon angled / , the top of the arc further ahead in the direction of travel. Other wise you will have cold lap "dripping" on the bottom piece. For the 3g vert. up, make little U's coming down one side, hold in puddle shortly, then go up the other side, then just reverse the procedure. It takes time and practice, keep at it. The best electrode ( I think) to learn this with is either 6010 or 6011, they stick alot, but they don't have a lot of slag so you can see what you are doing with the puddle better. EDIT>>>>>>2g can be on plate or pipe the orientation of the weld is the same though- horizontal so the same info still applies. Just substitute the word "piece" for pipe in the case of plate, sorry, I made that a little more complicated than necessary.
I get mine at the local hardware
try looking in the yellow pages under welding supplies
i go back & forth circles work ok,
just get the heat right
I'd have to agree with the other answers, and say that taking a vo-tech course is a great way to get the basics. But, if that's not an option, there are some good instructional materials that you can use to get you going in the right direction.
The Welder's Handbook by Richard Finch is a good starter book. Another REALLY good place to spend some time, is the Lincoln and Miller websites. They have lots of instructional information posted on those sites.
Northern Tool has a series of DVD instructional videos. I've only ever seen their Oxy-Acetylene one, but it was thorough, well filmed, and a great start for a beginner. Perhaps their stick version is just as good?
Even if you take a class, having a library of your own reference materials is a good idea. Whatever you do, pay close attention to safety (correct sheild, ventilation, etc.), and really pay attention to what separates a good weld from a bad one. Learn that for yourself, and don't just take somebody's word for it. I've seen some pretty poor welding technique that was presented to me as if it were the "right" way, when clearly it was not.
The rest is practice. It will take a good bit of it, so be patient. Welding is a great skill to have, even if you don't do it for a living. You can make/fix so many things.
Good Luck.